Apparatus for proportionally balancing garments



Sept. 7, 1954 Original Filed March 10, 1948 H. BOOTH 2,688,188

APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS 6 Sheets-Sheet lSHOULDER INVENTOR. HENRY BoorH Sept. 7, 1954 H. BOOTH APPARATUS FORPROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Original Filed March 10, 1948 6Sheets-Sheet 2 SCY REFERENCE PL 9 NE INVENTOR. HEN/Pr BOOTH P WLSW 6Sheets-Sheet 3 7 T o s g J a g A 3 3m mm @m 023 mm 3w 2 8% *3 w. Y P

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Dll lllll lll HENRY BOOTH m av Qmwim 'IIIIIIIIA'IIIII By FYTTOQVEY Sept.7, 1954 H. BOOTH 2,683,183

' APPARATUS FOR PROPORTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Original Filed March10, 1948 i Sheets-Sheet 6 PL ONE INVENTOR. EA/PY BOOTH 7 fiTTOP/VEYPatented Sept. 7, 1954 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE APPARATUS FORPROPDRTIONALLY BALANCING GARMENTS Henry Booth, Bronxville, N. Y.,assignor to The Henry Booth Methods Corporation, New York, N. Y., acorporation of Delaware Claims.

My invention relates to an apparatus for proportionally balancinggarments.

This application is a division of my copending application Serial No.14,134 for Method for Proportionally Balancing Garments, filed March 10,1948, now Patent No. 2,624,943, dated January 13, 1953.

Garments such as mens suits are now procured in two general manners,usually designated as tailor-made and ready-made. A tailormade garmentis one in which cloth is selected by the customer and the suit made toorder from measurements taken by a tailor. Usually, the girth of thechest, the girth of the waist, the girth of the seat, the girth of theabdomen, the girth of the thigh, the height of the customer, the outseamof the trouser, the inseam of the trouser, the inseam of the sleeve, ameasurement from the middle of the back of the neck across the shoulderto the elbow and then to the end of the sleeve, a measurement fromoutseam to outseam across the shoulders, a measurement from the middleof the back of the neck around the front and down the front to the vestopening, and then down to the top of the waist are taken. The squarenessof the shoulders is checked. All of the measurements taken are notnecessarily used. From these measurements, the tailor cuts a patternfrom which the cloth is cut and basted into the form of the garment.Ordinarily the basted garment is fitted to the customer and inaccuraciesin the pattern are compensated for in order to get a suit of clotheswhich fits.

With a tailor who has a degree of skill, a fairly good fitting garmentis attained in this manner. Unfortunately, however, an individualmerchant tailor cannot aiford to employ a stylist who commands a largesalary and who has the ability to cut clothes so that they present asmart or stylish appearance. A tailor-made suit, therefore, while wellfitting is apt to look old-fashioned and out of style.

Ready-made clothes are designed by a master stylist who since his stylewill be reproduced many times can be economically employed by anestablishment making ready-made clothes. The designer usually cuts apattern for what is termed a 38 regular. The style is usually given aname. The regular pattern is cut for a man having a 38 chest measurementand regular posture, that is, a man who is not hunchback, roundshouldered or hollow chested. It is assumed that he is of average heightand has normal shoulders, equal in length and in slope. In addition tothe regular size, two other 38 sizes are made,

2 that is a 38 short and a 38 long so that for each chest measurementthere will be three general sizes. In addition, the style is usuallymade in the three types for all chest measurements from thirty-five tofifty-two. Accordingly, it is necessary for a store selling the clothesto carry sixteen sizes of three lengths for each style. Itis not unusualto have as many as five hundred different sizes and lengths in variousstyles for one pattern of cloth. It will be seen, therefore,

that the choice of styles and fabrics must necessarily be limited inready-made clothes.

Furthermore, it rarely happens that a stock suit of clothes will exactlyfit a customer. Some alterations are usually necessary. Notinfrequently, in making the alterations, the style which was expensivelyachieved may be destroyed or altered to lose its effect.

One object of my invention is to provide apparatus for proportioninggarments such that a standard pattern may be altered from the customersmeasurements in such a manner that the style of the garment will beretained and that the garment will fit the customer precisely without atrial fitting.

Another object of my invention is to provide a device for proportionallybalancing garments by transcribing into measurements intelligible tocutters deviations from a standard pattern required to be made to obtaina garment which will fit a given customer and retain the original style.

Another object of my invention is to provide a novel apparatus forproportioning garments from measurements whereby a standard pattern maybe altered to provide a garment which will fit the customer and retainthe style of the garment.

Other and further objects of my invention will appear from the followingdescription.

In the accompanying drawings which form part of the instantspecification and which are to be read in conjunction therewith and inwhich like reference numerals are used to indicate like parts in thevarious views:

Figure 1 is a top plan view of a coat showing various adjustments madebetween front and back panels for various changes from a regularpattern.

Figure 2 is a front elevation of the garment shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the garment shown in Figure 1.

Figure 4 is an elevation of a front panel of a coat showing the variouschanges made in Figures l, 2 and 3.

Figure 5 is an elevation of a back panel of a coat showing thecorresponding changes made.

Figure 6 is a view showing a section of a tape used in the apparatusembodying my invention.

Figure 7 is a front elevation of a device for proportioning garmentswhich may be used in carrying out my method.

Figure 8 is a sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Figure 7.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary sectional view drawn on an enlarged scaletaken on a line Figure 8.

Figure 10 is a fragmentary plan view drawn on an enlarged scale of theportion of the face of the device shown in Figure 7.

Figure 11 is a fragmentary sectional view taken along the line I l| I inFigure 10.

Figure 12 is a fragmentary sectional view taken .along the line I2-l2 ofFigure. 10.

Figure 13 is a perspective View of the front of a coat showing the useof the-strap measurement to establish a horizontal reference plane.

Figure 14 is a rear perspective view of a coat showing the use of a scyemeasurement to establish a horizontal referenceplane.

In carrying out my method, I first establish a horizontal referenceplane to which all other measurements are co-related. This referenceplane extends horizontally below the armscye of the garment and isdetermined by measuring around one shoulder. The manner of establishingthe reference plane can be understood by reference to Figures 2 and 3.For uniformitys sake, I prefer to establish this reference plane tangentto the bottom of the armscye of the garment. The length of themeasurement from reference plane around the shoulder to reference planeis designated as shoulder. The length of the measurement from the middleof the back of the neck around the neck and downwardly to the middle ofthe front of the garment to the ref erence plane is called strap. Ihelength of the measurement from the middle of the back of the'neck downthe middle of the back to the reference plane is called scye. Myinvention will be described with reference to the coat of a suit, thoughit is to be understood that it is applicable to vests, robes, capes,overcoats and the like. addition to the strap, the shoulder and the scyemeasurements, the girth of the chest, the girth of the waist, and thegirth of the seat are taken. In the case of a vest, the girth of thechest, the girth of the waist, the position of the bottom button and thelength of the back are taken. The measurements described hereinbeforeare gener ally made by an experienced fitter with a common tape measurein a manner which will be understood by those skilled in the art.

With the above measurements, a standard pattern can be readily alteredin accordance with my method in a proportional manner to retain theoriginal style and at the same time provide a perfectly fitting garment.

If the scye measurement of the customer is too long, a standard garmentwill flare in the back and there will be diagonal wrinkles in the siderunning from the front of the coat upwardly toward the back. If thestrap measurement of; the customer is too long with respect to thestandard garment, the coat will flare in the front and diagonal wrinkleswill extend along the sides of the coat from the front downwardly towardthe back. If the scye measurement of the customer is too short withrespect to the standard garment, there will be horizontal wrinkles inback of the coat below the neck. If the strap measurement of thecustomer is too short with respect to the standard garment, the coatwill dip in the front and flare in the back.

Referring now to Figure 2, the full shoulder line indicated by thereference numeral I4 is a line indicating the normal shoulder to whichthe standard pattern is cut. The shoulder line Mh comprising a line ofalternate long and short dashes represents the shoulder line for aperson having high shoulders. The line Ms comprising a line of one longand three short dashes shows the shoulder line of a person havingsloping shoulders. The lines I4, I ls and I471 all lie along line I4 inFigure 1 and Figure 3. Whereas in Figure 2, it is assumed that thecustomer is neither more erect than the pattern model nor more stoopedthan the pattern model. The adjustment for high shoulders, it will beobserved, is made by reducing both the length of the strap and thelength of the scye at a point near the neck. Accordingly, a highshoulder correction lessens the length of the dimensions of both thefront and back pattern remote from the shoulder. It will be observed,further, that in the case of a sloping shoulder the length of the strapand the length of the scye are both increased, that is, the dimensionfrom the reference plane to the seam Ms, both in front and back, islonger than the standard pattern. The effect of a sloping shouldercorrection, therefore, is to increase the dimensions of both the scyeand the strap.

Let us assume that the customer stands with his neck slightly forward ofthe standard position, that is, he has a slight stoop. Referring now toFigure l, the lineof dashes l5 indicates the contour of the neck and theshoulder seam. The seam is is obtained by increasing the measurementfrom the reference plane from the mid-- die of the back to the middle ofthe neck, that is, increasing the length of the back as in the case ofsloping shoulders and decreasing the length of the measurement from thereference plane along the strap to the shoulder seam, that is, themeasurement from the middle of the front of the reference plane to thetop of the front panel of the pattern. This correction is one made forhigh shoulders in the front panel. This can be seen by reference toFigures 4 and 5. The line 14 indicates the standard pattern line formingthe shoulder seam M Figures 1 and 3. The dashed line It in Figure 4:formed at an angle with line i l in a manner so as to reduce the lengthof the front panel adjacent the neck. The dashed line it in Figure 5 isformed at an angle with line M so as to increase the length of the backpanel from the reference plane to the neck line. In other words, we havemade a correction in the front panel which we would make for highshoulders. We have, however, made a correction in the back panel whichwe would make for sloping shoulders. The correction made is theequivalent of high shoulders in the front and "sloping shoulders in theback. Let us now consicler that the customer is stooped more than thatindicated by the line [6 to a position indicated by the line l8 formedwith two dashes and a dot. By reference to Figures 1, 3, 4- and 5 itwill be seen that line 58 is parallel to line it. Not only is the strapmeasurement reduced and the scye measurement increased but the point ofjuncture of. the seam with the shoulder seam I7 is moved forwardly. Acorrection of this type, where the new shoulder seam It is parallel tothe old shoulder seam M of the standard pattern and displaced in aforwardly direction, is called a correction for stoop. The correctionadjacent the neck in this case is one which does not change the slope ofthe shoulders.

It will be observed that the corrections for stoop may be of two kinds.The angle of the shoulder seam may be changed to allow for the moreforward positioning of the neck by a sloping shoulder correction in theback and a high shoulder correction in the front and leaving the seamadjacent the sleeve seam as in the original pattern; or the correctionmay be made by increasing the length of the scye and decreasing thelength of the strap, which results in lengthening the panel in the backadjacent the sleeve seam and shortenin the panel in the front adjacentthe sleeve seam. If larger corrections for stoop were made only byshortening the strap and lengthening the scye, the balance of thegarment would be destroyed and the style which is attained. at suchgreat effort and expense would be lost. Similarly, if large correctionsfor stoop were made only by the sloping shoulder correction in back andthe high shoulder correction in front, the balance of the garment wouldbe distorted and the style lost. I have determined that only a limitedcorrection for stoop should be made by cutting the pattern to slopingshoulders in back and hi h shoulders in front and that the balance ofthe correction for stoop must be made by lengthening the scye andreducing the strap adjacent the sleeve seam. It is generally better tobalance corrections so that part of the correction in stoop is made byeach of the type of corrections described above.

Still referring to Figures 1, 3, 4 and 5, the line drawn with a dash andfour dots is obtained when the customer is quite round shouldered. Itwill be noted that the line 20 is parallel to the line it and thepattern alteration is the result of two corrective increments. The firstincrement is to apply the correction for sloping shoulders in back andthe correction of high shoulders in front as in the case of thecorrections applied to obtain line It. The second increment of thecorrection is to increase the length of the scye and to decrease thelength of the strap as may readily be observed by reference to Figure 3.The result of the two increments is to provide a coat which will fit an,extreme case of stoop without destroying the balance of the garment.

The dotted line 22 is obtained when the customer has an erect postureand carries his neck well back. The pattern is altered by applying asloping shoulders correction in front and a high shoulders correction inback. For an extreme erect position, the line 26, comprising a dash andtwo dots, is obtained by using two increments of correction. Oneincrement is obtained by applying the correction of high shoulders inback and for sloping shoulders in front, and the other increment isobtained by increasing the strap and reducing the scye, as will beobserved by reference to Figure 3.

As in the case of corrections for stoop, corrections for a position moreerect than the standard position to which the pattern is drawn must beapplied so as not to destroy the balance of the garment and the style ofthe pattern. This is achieved by dividing the correction betweencorrections of the two types.

In practice, I have found that a sloping shoulderand a correspondinghigh shoulder correction alone, without any alteration in the strap orthe scye measurements adjacent the sleeve seam, should not be in excessof one inch and that beyond this a correction for the strap and the scyemeasurements adjacent the sleeve seam should be introduced, whichcorrection I have termed a correction for stoop or a correction forerect. The numerical values of the stoop and erect corrections are twicethe actual distance the seam is moved. If, for example, a person to befitted has a three-quarter inch stoop,

' this may be compensated for by providing a sloping shoulder correctionin back of three-eighths of an inch and a high shoulder correction infront of three-eighths of an inch. It may be compensated for, too, byproviding a stoop correction of one-half inch and a sloping shouldercorrection in back of an eighth of an inch and a high shouldercorrection in front of an eighth of an inch. In other words, as long asthe sloping shoulder and high shoulder corrections are not in excess ofone inch, the balance of the garment will not be destroyed. Usually,even in extreme cases, a correction of two inches in each direction issufficient to accommodate all but the most deformed of men. Each sideis, of course, independently corrected in accordance with the customersmeasurement.

From the foregoing, it will be clear that my method contemplates theestablishment of a reference plane from which measurements are taken andthe correction of a standard pattern to provide for sloping shoulder andhigh shoulder corrections within predetermined limits and the provisionof a correction for the balance of the needed change by variations inthe strap and scye measurements adjacent the sleeve seam.

In practice, the method may be carried out without any particularapparatus. The reference plane may be marked on the person by means ofchalk marks defining a plane just under the arm scye of the coat. It maybe established, too, by the shoulder measurement. The corrections forhigh shoulders or sloping shoulders may be noted. The corrections forthe stooped or erect positions may be measured on the person and properallowances made so that a sloping shoulder or high shoulder correctionof not more than one inch may be applied and the balance of thecorrection obtained by variations of the strap and scye measurements.

I have found that it will be a convenience, however, in practicing mymethod to employ apparatus, which forms the instant invention, whichwill facilitate the practice of the method. Referring now to Figure 6, Ihave shown a segment of an endless tape 31 carrying columns of indiciaplaced in a predetermined position. The column of figures, indicatedgenerally by the reference numeral Bil, represents the strapmeasurements, the line 32 running through those of the standard pattern.The column of numerals indicated generally by the reference number 34indicates the scye measurements, the standard measurements beingindicated by the line 36. The column of figures indicated generally bythe reference numeral 38 are the standard shoulder measurements whichlocate the reference plane. The column of figures indicated by thereference numeral M is the chest measurements of the coat. The column offigures indicated by the reference numeral M is the waist measurementsof the standard models. The column of figures indicated generally by thereference numeral 44 represents the seat measurementsof: the standard:

models. The column of figures indicated"genenally by the referencenumeral 46, indicates the chest measurements for the vest in thestandard model. The column of figures indicated generally by thereference numeral 48 indicates the waist measurements for the vest onthe standard model. The column of figures indicated generally by thereference numeral 50 indicates the length along the strap to the bottombutton of the vest. The column of figures indicated generally by thereference numeral 52 indicates the length of the measurement along thescye to the bottom of the back of the vest.

The column indicated generally by the reference numeral 54 contains thename of the model, that is, its style, the size, and the length of themodel-whether it is a regular, a long or a short.

Referring now to Figures 8 and 9, the tape 31 is borne by a plurality ofrollers 55, 516, 51, 58, 59, 60,,16I, 62, 63., 6:4 and 65. Each of therollers com.- prises members 63 covered by rubber members 68. The shafts66 are journaled in suitable bearings; The shafts of the bottom rollers60., 6| and 62 are lodged in slots '56 so that the weight of the rollersserves to keep the tape taut. Sprocket wheels 72 are secured to theshafts of the upper rollers 63, 64 and 65. A sprocket chain 74 passesaround the edge of the sprocket 12 so that movement of one of therollers 63, 6.4 or 65 will result in the movement of all three. Securedto the shaft 65 of the roller 63 outboard of the sprocket wheel '52, Iprovide a second sprocket wheel I6. A shaft 18 is journaled in thehousing 86 and carries a sprocket wheel 82. A sprocket chain 84 extendsaround sprocket wheel '76 and sprocket wheel 82. A sprocket wheel 86 issecured to the shaft 13 for rotation therewith. A horizontal casing 86is secured to the housing 80. A sprocket wheel 9i provided with a handle62, for rotating it is journaled in the casing 88. A sprocket chain 94extends between sprocket wheel 86.

The tape 3| passes adjacent the front wall 96" of. the casing 80 overrollers 51 and 58, thence around rollers 59, 66, 65, 6!, 64, 62, 63, 55and 56 as can readily be seen by reference to Figure 8. The weight ofthe roller 66, 6| and 62' will serve to keep the tape taut. The ratio ofthe diameter of the sprocket wheels is such that sprocket wheel 90 islarger than sprocket wheel 86; Sprocket wheel 82 is larger in diameterthan sprocket wheel "I6. In this manner, a speed increase is obtained sothat rotation of the crank 92 will move the tape 3! rapidly. The frontface 96 of the housing 68 is provided with a plurality of windows 98,I60, I62, I04 and I06, as well a -a large window I68. The position ofthe windows 68, :06, I62, I64 and I06 is indicated in Figure 6; There isvisible through window 98 that portion of the tape showing column 54.There is visible through window I66 that portion of the tape showingcolumns 38, 40, 42 and 44. Columns 46, 46, 58 and of the tape are viewedthrough window I62. The strap measurements are seen through window I64,while the scye measurements are seen through window I06. The largewindow I68 provides a translucent writing surface.

Within the casing 86 I provide illuminating means such as fluorescenttube H and reflector I I2 for illuminating window I08. The tape itselfmay be transparent or translucent and the win dows 98, I80, I02, I04 andI06 are illuminated by illuminating means such as fluorescent tube.I;.I,4;

sprocket wheel 90 and 8. and reflector IIB. Horizontal casing 88 will beprovided with a pair of drawers H8 and I20, the upper surface of theextension being illuminated by lighting means such as fluorescent tubeI22 and reflector I24.

Referring now to Figure 10, which is an enlarged view of a section ofthe front 96 of the housing showing the windows 68, I00, I02, I04 and.I06, together with the tape 3| therebehind, it will be observed that Ihave provided a sliding member I26 provided with a handle I28 carrying aknob I30. The member I26 is provided with an extension I32 passingthrough a slot formed in the face 96 of the casing 80. A plate I34secured to the extension I32 by means of screws I 36 so that the memberI26 is free to slide from side to side. The face 96 of the casing isprovided with a plurality of reentrant portions I38 in which the end ofa spring press pin I40 carried by the pointer I28 is adapted to seat.The pin I40, furthermore, is adapted to limit the righthand motion ofthe member I26 by contact with a stop member I42. The left-hand motionof the slide I26 is adapted to be limited by a stop member I44 carriedby the casing. A series of scribe marks or like indicia is provided onthe face 96 of the casing just above the slide in the region of thepointer I28. The marks to the left of the zero point indicate stoop. Themarks to the right of the zero point indicate erect. The scale of thescribe marks I46 is drawn one-half the actual scale, that is, in thescale one-half inch equals one inch. The reason for this will becomeapparent as this description proceeds.

Slidably positioned within the left-hand side of slide I26, I provide amember 148 having a knob I58 by which it may be moved to the right andto the left. The slide I48 carries a pointer I52 normally pointing to azero scribe mark I54. A stop member I56 prevents the slide I48 frommoving any further to the right. Similarly, a stop member I 53 limitsthe leftward movement of the slide I48, which slide may be made oftransparent material. The upper portion I2! of the slide I26 may be madeof transparent material so that the numerals on the tape 3| seen throughthe windows I04 and I06 may be readily visible.

A third slide I 60 is slidably carried on the right-hand side of theslide I26 and is provided with a knob I62 for moving the slide I60easily, which slide is made of transparent material. The slide I60carries a pointer I64 which is adapted to cooperate with a stop memberI66 carried by the slide I26 for limiting the right-hand movement of theslide I60. A stop member I68 coacts with the pointer I 64 to limit theleft-hand movement of the slide I60. The scribe mark I65 indicates zero.It will be observed that the small scale carried by the right-hand sideof the slide I26 extends one inch in each direction and that theright-hand side of the scale carries the legend HS which represents highshoulders. That portion of the scale to the left of the zero mark IE5 isdesignated by the legend SS which stands for sloping shoulders.

The scale cooperating with the slide I48 carried by the left-hand sideof the large slide I26 likewise extends one inch in each direction. Itsleft-most portion is marked with the legend HS" standing for highshoulders, while the right-hand portion of the left subscale isassociated with the legend SS standing for sloping shoulders. In thepractice of my method and in the use of my apparatus, let us say that acustomer enters a merchant tailor, employing my invention and selectsthe style known as Dunn. He chooses a fabric of which he would like tohave the suit from the samples of the fabric which may be displayed inany suitable manner. Let us assume, too, that his chest, measured with atape measure, has a 42 inch girth and that his height is about feetinches, so that he would take a 42 regular. The tailor then cranks thehandle 92 until the legend Dunn 42 Reg. appears in window 98. What isthen seen can be viewed in Figures 6 and 10. It will be observed thatthe reference plane on the standard pattern is established by a shouldermeasurement of 19 The girth of the chest of the coat is 55". The girthof the chest of the vest is 43%. In other words, in the standard style,an allowance of 1%" is made for the vest while an allowance of 13" ismade for the coat. The waist of the standard model around the coat is 50The waist for the vest is made at 40 The seat on the standard model is53%,. The length along the strap to the bottom button is 23 The lengthof the back of the vest is The length of the strap is 16%". The lengthof the scye is 10%".

In taking the measurements of the customer, the tailor first locates thereference plane. This is done very simply by measuring 19% around theshoulder or by drawing a horizontal line just below the armscyle. Thestrap measurement is then taken .and the scye measurement is then taken.By means of a square, it is noted whether the shoulders are normal andequal in height.

The bottom button measurement of the vest is used to determine whetherthe vest pattern should be lengthened or shortened and to what amount.

Let us assume that the scye measurement actually taken on the customerwas 11% and that the strap measurement was 16". The righthand edge ofthe slide I60 may be brought into alignment with the scye measurementactually taken from the customer. To do this the slide I60 must be movedto the left and will indicate sloping shoulder of an inch. The left-handslide I48 may be moved to the left to bring its left-hand edge intoalignment with the strap measurement on the tape, that is, 16". Whenthis is done, the pointer I42 will read high shoulders of an inch. Thecutter may be instructed to change the pattern high shoulders front ofan inch and sloping shoulders back of an inch. It will be observed thatneither of these measurements differs from the standard pattern morethan one inch and that accordingly the pointer I52 is not stopped by thestop I58, nor is the pointer I64 stopped by the stop I68. This degree ofmeasurement may be made without seriously affecting the balance of thegarment. If desired, however, since the figure of the customer issomewhat stooped, the handle I30 may be moved to the left to indicatestoop. This carries the right-hand side of the slide I26 to the left toindicate a scye measurement of 11 and a strap measurement of 16 /2, dueto the fact that the stoop and erect scale is drawn to the scale ofone-half inch equals one inch. Accordingly, the half-inch movement ofthe pointer I28 will register only one-quarter inch on each of the scyeand strap scales. The strap, however, is 16". Accordingly, the smallslide I46 must be moved to the left another half an inch, thusindicating high shoulders in. The scye measurement was 11% so that theslide I60 must be moved to the left of an inch, resulting in a readingby pointerv I64 of sloping shoulders in. All alterations to the strapmeasurements are considered front, while all alterations to the scyemeasurements are considered back. It will be observed from the foregoingthat the garment will fit with substantially the same balance by onetype of change in the pattern, or by a change in the pattern comprisingtwo compon ents, one for stoop and one comprising high shoulders infront and sloping shoulders in back.

Let us now assume that a customer who has chosen a Dunn style and whosechest measurement and height require the use of basic pattern of a 42regular has an extremely erect carriage and is, in fact, slightly swayback. Let us assume further that this customers scye measurement is 9and that his strap measurement is 18". Starting with the slide I60, thisslide is moved to the right in an attempt to align its right-hand edgewith 9 /2. After 9 is reached, the slide I60 is arrested by pointer I64,contacting the stop I66. The slide I26 then must be moved toward theright, first one notch, that is, so the spring press pin I40 rests inthe reentrant portion I38 with the pointer I28 opposite A; in. erect.The slide I60 cannot yet be moved to the right to reach a scyemeasurement of 9 due to the fact that the movement to the right of thescale I26 only brings its right-hand edge to 10 The operator then movesthe slide I26 another notch to the right to bring it to the reading oneinch erect. The right-hand side of the scale I26 will now be inalignment with 10% on the scye scale. The slide I60 may now be moved tothe right to bring its right-hand edge in alignment with the scyemeasurement of the customer, namely 9%". The pointer I64 will then read7 high shoulders. The movement of the slide I26 to the right to theposition of one inch erect will bring the left-hand edge of the scaleI26 to 17%;". The slide I46 may then be moved to the right to bring itsleft-hand edge in alignment with the strap measurement of the customer,namely, 18", so that the pointer I52 will then read sloping shouldersin.

The cutter will be instructed to change the pattern by the directions 1in. erect, high shoulders back sloping shoulders front.

Let us say that a customer has high shoulders, that is, his shouldersare more square and not as sloping as a standard model. This will be atonce apparent from the strap and scye measurements. If the scyemeasurements, for example, were 10% and the strap measurement was 16%",the

correction would be made by moving the scale I 60 to the right one-halfinch and the scale I 48 to the left one-half inch. This degree of changein slope is easily verified from the square measurements taken. Thecutter would then be instructed to change the pattern to provide for acorrection of high shoulders /2 in.

It will be seen that the device described enables my method to becarried out in a convenient, simple and expeditious manner. The highshoulders and sloping shoulders corrections are not made in excess ofone inch in each direction. The movement of the scam in stoop and erectcorrections is not made in excess of one inch in each direction. A oneinch erect correction, for example, would be distributed evenly,one-half inch to the strap and one-half inch to the scye, due to thefact that the stoop and erect scale changes both the strap and the scyemeasurement a like amount. The reason for making the stoop and erectscale one-half the actual scale will now be apparent. By moving thescale I26 one-half inch to the right a correction of one inch isobtained distributed evenlyone-halfinch to the strap and one-half inchto the scye.

The system of stops, the stops I42 and I44 for the scale Hit and thestops I66 and IE8 for the scale its and the stops I55 and I58for thescale I48, automatically prevents the application of corrections to sucha degree that an unbalanced garment would be made. The pattern isautomatically corrected in such a manner as to maintain the style forwhich the garment was designed.

The other customary measurements of the length of the coat, the actualwaist of the customer, the actual seat of the customer, the actualposition of the bottom button and the length of the back or" the vestare all taken as in the usual case and the standard pattern altered inaccordance with these actual dimensions. These dimensions are notcritical and are not such as to disturb the balance of the garment.

By means of my method, I have been enabled to fit customers preciselywithout a trial fitting. I can provide smartly styled tailored garmentsmade from a standard pattern and can be assured that the suits will fit.In this manner, I am enabled to obtain many of the advantages ofready-made clothing in so far as smart styles are concerned and all ofthe advantages of tailored clothing in so far as the fitting of theclothes are concerned.

My method and apparatus removes much of the guesswork from tailoring andtends to reduce it from an art to a science whereby accurately fittingclothes are insured.

It will be seen that I have accomplished the objects of my invention.

I have provided a method and apparatus for proportioning garments suchthat a standard pattern may be altered from the customers measurementsin a manner to retain the style and to enable the garment to fitprecisely Without the necessity of the trial and error method. I have animproved method of proportioning garments in an accurate, uniform,simple and expeditious manner. I have provided apparatus forproportioning garments from measurements of the customer whereby astandard pattern may be altered to provide a garment which will fit thecustomer in a manner to retain the style of the original pattern.

Thus far I have described the fixing of a reference plane by a standardshoulder measurement and the alteration of the pattern by strap and scyemeasurements in order to provide a garment of a style in accordance witha standard and obtain the necessary lit for the particular subject to befitted with a garment. It is to be understood that the standardreference plane may be established by either the standard scyemeasurement or the standard strap measurement. If the reference plane isestablished by the standard scye measurement, the shoulder measurementand the strap measurement of the person will be used to alter thestandard pattern. If the reference plane is established by a standardstrap measurement, the scye measurement and the shoulder measurement ofthe person will be used to alter the pattern. Referring now to Figure13, it will be seen that the horizontal reference plane has beenestablished by the strap measurement indicated in full lines and thatthe scye and shoulder measurements indicated in dotted lines may bevaried. It will be clear that if a sloping shoulder correction is to bemade thiscan be done very readily by reducing the shoulder measurementin an amount proper to provide an increased degree of sloping of theshoulder line over the slope of the standard garment. If the subject hashigh shoulders the shoulder measurement is increased and the scyemeasurement remains the same. It is to be remembered that when thereference plane is established by the strapmeasurement it never changes.Let us now assume that the subject is stooped and it is desired to givethe coat the configuration say of .construction line 26 shown in Figure3. To accomplish this, the scye measurement is increased by the amountof stoop and the standard shoulder measurement is increased by an amountequal to the increase in the scye measurement, assuming that it is notdesired to change the slope of the shoulder. If, on the other hand, itis desired to give the coat a configuration of erect such as indicatedby construction line 24 of Figure 3, the scye measurement is decreasedand the shoulder measurement is decreased a corresponding amount,assuming that it is desired to maintain the same slope of the shoulders.Thus the balance of the coat is maintained.

Referring now to Figure 14, I have shown the case in which the scyemeasurement is used to establish the horizontal reference plane. Inthis, if it is desired to correct for sloping shoulders, the shouldermeasurement is decreased. If it is desired to correct for high shouldersthe shoulder measurement is increased. If it is desired to correct forstoop and strap measurement is decreased the required amount and theshoulder measurement is decreased a corresponding amount. If it isdesired to correct for a more erect posture than the standard garmentthe strap is increased and the shoulder is increased a correspondingamount.

Thus it is seen that the essence of my method is to establish ahorizontal reference plane to which the standard shoulder, strap andscye measurements are read. Thereference plane is then located on 'thesubject by one of these standard measurements which may be either theshoulder measurement, the strap measurement orthe scye measurement. Theactual length of each of the other two measurements of the subject isthen taken to the reference plane which is thus established and each ofthe actual lengths is then compared with the corresponding measurementto determine the amount and direction of the difference therebetween.The standard pattern may then be readily altered in accordance with thedifferences thus obtained and'the resulting garment will fit andmaintain the proportional balance of the standard garment. In practice,I have found it most suitable toestablish the referenceplane by astandard shoulder measurement.

It will be understood that certain features and subcombinations are ofutility and may be employed without reference to other features andsubcombinations. This is contemplated by and is within the scope of myclaims. It is further obvious that various changes may be made indetails within the scope of my claims without departing from the spiritof my invention. It

is, therefore, to be understood that my invention is not to be. limitedto :the specific details shown and described.

Having thus described my invention, what .I claim is:

-l. A devicefor proportioning garments including in combination a tapebearing a line of garment sizes of a predetermined style, acorresponding line of standard shoulder measurements adapted to locate areference plane upon a pattern corresponding to garments of said styleand size, a line of scales having their midpoints aligned with the strapmeasurements of the sizes and a line of scales having their midpointsaligned with the scye measurements of the standard sizes, a casingformed with at least four windows, means for mounting said tape withinsaid casing for view through said windows, said windows being positionedto exhibit a style and size and the corresponding shoulder measurementand strap and scye scales, a first member mounted on said casing forrelative movement along the scales in view through said windows, saidmember having a length extending between the midpoint of the strap scaleto the midpoint of the scye scale, a second member carried by said firstmember and mounted for relative movement thereto adjacent said strapscale and a third member carried by said first member for movementrelative thereto along said scye scale.

2. A device as in claim 1 in. which said scye scales have a length of atleast four inches.

A device as in claim 1 in which each of said strap scales and scyescales has a length of at least four inches.

4. A device as in claim 1 in which the amplitude of motion of said firstmember is at least two inches.

5. A device as in claim 1 in which said second member may move at leasttwo inches relative to said first member.

6. A device as in claim 1 in which said third member may move at leasttwo inches relative to said first member.

'7. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member is mounted formovement through an amplitude of at least two inches, said second memberis mounted for relative movement to said first member through anamplitude of at least two inches and said third member is mounted forrelative movement to said first member through an amplitude of at leasttwo inches.

8. A device as in claim 1 in which said casing is provided with a scale,a pointer carried by said first member normally positioned midway ofsaid scale, the scale to one side of th midpoint adjacent the strapscale indicating stoop,

the scale to the one side of the midpoint adjacent the scye scaleindicating erect.

9. A device as in claim 1 in which said casing is provided with a scale,a pointer carried by said first member normally positioned midway ofsaid scale, the scale to one side of the midpoint adjacent the strapscale indicating stoop, the scale to the one side of the midpointadjacent the scye scale indicating erect, and means for limiting themovement of said first member.

10. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member carries a scale, apointer carried by said second member midway of said scale, the scale toone side of the pointer indicating "high shoulders and the scale to theother side of the pointer indicating sloping shoulders.

11. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member carries a scale, apointer carried by said second member midway of said scale, the scale toone side of the pointer indicating high shoulders and the scale to theother side of the pointer indicating sloping shoulders, and means forlimiting the movement of said second member.

12. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member is provided with ascale, a pointer adjacent said third member positioned at the midpointof said scale, the scale to one side of said midpoint indicating slopingscoulders and the scale to the other side of said midpoint indicatinghigh shoulders.

13. A device as in claim 1 in which said first member is provided with ascale, a pointer adjacent said third member positioned at the midpointof said scale, the scale to one side of said midpoint indicating slopingshoulders and the scale to the other side of said midpoint indicatinghigh shoulders, and means for limiting the movement of said third memberrelative to said first member.

14. A device as in claim 1 in which said means for mounting said tapecomprises a plurality of rolls, means for driving at least one of saidrolls frictionally to transport said tape and means for keeping saidtape taut.

15. A device as in claim 1 in which said means for mounting said tapecomprises a plurality of rolls, means for driving at least one of saidrolls frictionally to transport said tape and means for keeping saidtape taut, said means including a roll having an axle, slots formed insaid casing for preventing lateral movement of said axle and permittingvertical movement thereof whereby the weight of said roll will keep saidtape taut.

16. A device as in claim 1 in which said tape is made of translucentmaterial and means within said casing behind said tape adjacent saidwindows for illuminating said tape.

1'7. A device as in claim 1 in which said tape includes lines of chestmeasurements, waist measurements and seat measurements corresponding tothe standard sizes.

18. A device as in claim 1 in which said portion of said first memberextending over said strap and scye scales is made of transparentmaterial.

19. A device as in claim 1 in which said second member is made oftransparent material.

20. A device as in claim 1 in which said third member is made oftransparent material.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS NumberName Date 361,292 Jackson Apr. 19, 1887 514,063 Call Feb. 6, 1894456,184 Wolfi July 21, 1894 765,407 Wakefield July 19, 1904 855,272Barnett May 28, 1907 869,264 Ricciardi Oct. 29, 1907 1,321,253 SimonsNov. 11, 1919 1,612,012 Greenberg Dec. 28, 1926 2,512,285 Nippert June20, 1950

